At the end of March, three students of the Jeanschool of Amsterdam were selected for a full-immersion training at Tonello, where they learned about garment finishing and denim processing. During the week, they developed new skills and the right expertise to realize by themselves a creative denim collection, taking advantage of Tonello sustainable technologies. The collection was showcased during Amsterdam Denim Days 2016. A few months later we interviewed them, asking about their experience in Tonello, their thoughts about the industry and their future projects after graduation.
DONG THANH TRAN
What did the experience in Tonello brought to you, as knowledge and skills?
The experience has brought me a lot of fun for sure, deeper knowledge, more advanced skills and the opportunity to see what finishing is all about, also in terms of innovation. There is a bright future ahead of the textile industry. I always thought that finishing produced a lot of pollution, but Tonello has changed the game. It is only a matter of time before companies integrate Tonello’s machines into their systems. In the Blue Lab in Amsterdam I experienced the commonly used methods of washing, but working with them for 4 days straight gave me the knowledge about how to communicate with the finishing department as well as the possibilities of this department.
Could you briefly describe your denim project? Were you able to realize your initial idea?
My denim project was to laser a tiger camouflage print with a gradient fade on the shoulder part of the jacket and from the hem to the knee of the bottom part. I was able to realize this project as my initial idea.
How was your expertise in garment finishing before and after this experience? Has your perspective changed?
As I said before, It has deepened my knowledge. Before, I had little experience with finishing. My perspective changed a lot, in a good way. We have a bright future ahead of us.
Are you working on something? Do you have any future projects?
Right now I’m working on a 3-piece suit. I would like to experiment with tailoring and finishing in the future.
During the week in Tonello, you had the chance to try out and familiarize with the different garment finishing technologies. How important do you think is for a designer knowing these technologies and why?
I think as a denim designer, working with denim it’s really important to get familiar with these technologies, because it’s important to know what is possible and what will be possible integrating in a company. Not only for the financial and creative aspect of it, but also for the environment and the people who execute these finishes.
GIOVANNI HARDJODIKROMO
What did the experience in Tonello brought to you, as knowledge and skills?
The experience that Tonello brought me was seeing from very close how the washing process is done. I have learned how important it is to use new solutions in washing technologies. During the workshop at Tonello I increased my washing skills. Now I know the steps to get to a particular wash on jeans.
Could you briefly describe your denim project? Were you able to realize your initial idea?
My concept for this project was the traveling warrior. The collection consists of two pieces: a kimono jacket and a pair of pants. I used white denim for the pieces. Before we went to Tonello I had done a bit of research on Tonello’s website, to find out their possibilities regarding garment treatment. My initial idea was to create a real vintage piece from the white fabric. With the finest technologies in the R&D department I achieved the perfect result.
How was your expertise in garment finishing before and after this experience? Has your perspective changed?
Before Tonello I only had seen a small laundry at the denim city in Amsterdam. So I expected something similar, just bigger. At tonello I discovered the latest technologies regarding garment treatment. I had never heard about this kind of solutions. My perspective has changed after the workshop. I strongly believe that big companies should use these kind of machines for a cleaner production.
Are you working on something? Do you have any future projects?
At the moment I am very busy with my graduation project. For my concept I used Berto textiles fabric combined with Tonello washing treatment. I hope that I can inspire people to get conscious of how polluting garment treatment is, using old machines. For my future plans, I’m not sure yet. But I will always strive to create my own brand.
During the week in Tonello, you had the chance to try out and familiarize with the different garment finishing technologies. How important do you think is for a designer knowing these technologies and why?
I think this is important, because these technologies have different kind of results. This can be very positive for a designer’s collection. Also, you can make a nice marketing story with these kind of eco treatments.
MIKE VAN DER ZANDEN
What did the experience in Tonello brought to you, as knowledge and skills?
It’s always better to see new technologies first hand. Technologies like NoStone® and Laser were great to see. We only have a small laundry to work with in Denim City Amsterdam, so going directly to the manufacturer of the washing machines was fantastic. This is where all the latest innovations are. We got to learn a lot about working with these machines and also what chemicals do to the garments.
Could you briefly describe your denim project? Were you able to realize your initial idea?
Yes. My concept was about a traveling couple having a trip across Europe. Starting in Amsterdam they visited Berlin, Barcelona, and Paris to name a few. The trip ended in Iceland. The colors in the moodboard were based on the Icelandic environment in Autumn/Winter. My idea was to laser a map of the journey onto the jeans and dye it with the colors of Iceland. The end results were great!
How was your expertise in garment finishing before and after this experience? Has your perspective changed?
It changed a lot. Like I said before, working first hand with all the different technologies was amazing. The expertise of the people who were working with us was also key. They were really excited and patient and taught us a lot about what to do in the process of washing. It was a fantastic opportunity and I’m very grateful I was able to work with such a great team.
Are you working on something? Do you have any future projects?
We are about to graduate. My final collection is about Levi’s. This brand made me fall in love with denim in the first place. Also Tonello did a great collaboration with them regarding the NoStone technology. That was great to see. I will also develop some washes for this collection, so this will be a great moment to show what I learned at Tonello.
During the week in Tonello, you had the chance to try out and familiarize with the different garment finishing technologies. How important do you think is for a designer knowing these technologies and why?
It’s everything. When I was discussing fabrics with the team they told me that every fabric reacts differently to different treatments. For example, I didn’t know washing with ozone could, in some cases, turn an indigo fabric a bit greyish. So in order to develop washes as a designer I think it is key to know all the different technologies and what they can do to a garment.
Join the students during their week at Tonello and watch them experimenting with the different finishing technologies and washing techniques.